No disrespect to Madrid or Barcelona, but if you haven’t visited Seville, you haven’t done Spain right. The orange-tree-lined capital of Andalusia, the country’s southernmost region, Seville delivers quintessential Spain: transcendent flamenco, buzzy tapas bars, nail-biting bullfights, and mandatory siestas — all on a smaller, somewhat less crowded scale.
But it’s also been home to Romans, Moors, and Sephardic Jews over the centuries, as evident in ruins, architecture, and old neighborhoods that reflect all three. Oh, and did we mention there are more churros than one person could ever eat?
🥓 Tapas in Seville? Not optional. Classics include carillada (braised pork cheeks), espinacas con garbanzos (stewed spinach with chickpeas), and pavía de bacalao (fried cod) — all of which you’ll find at El Rinconcillo, believed by many to be the city's oldest tapas bar, where jamón legs hang from wooden beams and crowds huddle around sherry-barrel tables. For something more inventive, try Restaurante Eslava for honey-glazed ribs or an aged cheese ice cream that’s not to be believed.
💃 Apologies to tapas, but flamenco might be Seville’s real claim to fame. Visit Museo del Baile Flamenco for a primer on the history and evolution of the art form, before experiencing the rat-a-tat rhythm at spots across the city: Las Setas is a traditional tablao with cabaret-style shows, while Peña Flamenca Torres Macarena is a local favorite for its intimate, off-the-beaten-path performances. You can even go a step further by taking a class in flamenco dancing, guitar, clapping, or singing at Taller Flamenco.
👩🎨 Once a haven for artisans, flamenco dancers, and bullfighters, the Triana neighborhood still pulses with creative energy — especially around Calle Antillano Campos, the city’s unofficial ceramics hub. Start at Centro Cerámica Triana, an old factory turned museum that traces the area’s ceramic production legacy and traditions, including the colorful azulejo tiles that cover the city. Then pop into Cerámica Rocío-Triana to purchase pieces from a husband-and-wife team. Or, decorate your own during a tile-painting class at Barro Azul.
🏰 The best way to soak up the city is by wandering. No matter your route, stop at the Royal Alcázar, one of the oldest European palaces still in use, with fountain-filled patios, lush gardens, and ornate pavilions (GoT fans, you’ll recognize it). Then head to Seville Cathedral, a massive Gothic masterpiece where the panoramic views from its bell tower are well worth the climb up 30-some ramps. And don’t skip Plaza de España — sail down the canal in a rented rowboat, catch an impromptu flamenco show, and people-watch like there’s no tomorrow.
🚂 Seville has plenty to see, but it’s also a great home base for day trips. At the top of the list? Granada. There, you can meander the winding streets of the Albaicín (the medieval Moorish quarter), relax at Hammam al Ándalus, and explore the Alhambra, a spectacular hilltop fortress that dates back to the 13th century and is widely believed to be one of the world’s greatest castles — if not buildings. Just be sure to book your tickets in advance.